All About Valves

Archive for June, 2009

its part of what shifts the tranny into gear softly

Help!! How do I know if my Idler Air Control valve is bad? Because on the morning I see the idler level moving on the dash board! Sometime I feel vibration too! The car is a 2000 Dodge Durango 5.9

It’s "Idle Air Control Valve" and if you have a racing idle (revs keep jumping up and down) then you don’t likely have an IAC problem, you have a vacuum leak.

I can turn it but that is all it does it just keep going around and around it will…Not coming off… Please someone help!

im not sure if you mean hte handle to the faucet or a shut off valve under the sink.

If your trying to remove a handle to repair a leaking faucet, there might be a cap in the center of the handle you can pop out and then remove a screw.

If your talking about a shut off valve on a copper line, you have to hold the pipe and twist the nuts at the end of the valve

send me an email with more info at [email protected] if you dont get this resolved and I’ll see if I can help you.

well my transmission is actin up and i thought i put some fluid in to see if that would sovle the problem but soemone gave me the wrong direction of where to put the transmission fluid and i put it in the oil part instead of the transmission part what do i do

Just go for an oil change NOW. The tranny fluid have different formula. It is mostly hydralic fluid (as oppose to engine oil is mostly lubricant).

Don’t drive on it day after day. Do it NOW.

You are risking thousands of dollars worth of damage.

Good Luck.

P.S. Don’t tell the oil change place what you did. They’ll try to convince you do an expensive "OIL FLUSH". Both tranny and engine oil are OIL. You do NOT need to flush your engine oil. Just CHANGE IT.

I replaced the old rusted hot and cold water shut off Valves that supply water to my washing machine. Even after applying pipe thread compound AND tightening everything well, there’s still a small drip from the hot water valve where it meets the nipple pipe. How do I stop this?

There’s either another bit of tightening to be done or you’ve got too much thread tape on the nipple…you shouldn’t use more than 3 wraps.

My guess there’s a bit more tightening you can do.

Good luck…

Are these valves are a kind of heart chambers pressure sensors?What is keeping them interlocked 2×2?

It’s all mechanical. The valves are passive things kind of like a screen door. When you push on them from one side they open, when you push on them from the other they close. The valves are assisted by some fibers attached to the inside of the heart similar to the way a screen door is helped by a spring attached to the door frame. It’s the flowing blood that pushes the valves open or closed as the heart pumps. The path that the blood follows in the heart as it beats happens to make it so that the valves close two at a time. This is because the heart is actually four separate pumps that work two at a time. There’s no direct electrical connection to the SA node. The only way they’re connected is that the SA node firing is what causes the heart to pump, causing the blood to force the Valves open.

A golf course might be a dream place, but unless it is well irrigated with a sophisticated irrigation system, it will not only lead to water wastage but will do harm to the quality of the ground. Therefore a wise decision must be taken when deciding which system to adopt. The golf course irrigation system usually consists of sprinklers, field controllers, central control systems and Valves. These are the components of an automatic sprinkler system. Each has a function of its own and each plays a vital role in proper irrigation. It is always advisable to use irrigation systems that manage water efficiently.

The central control system offers automatic monitoring thus it saves water and benefits the environment. An automatic controller will have multiple start times, multiple independent programs and automatic shut on / off. This is a great option, because you have the flexibility to irrigate only when necessary. You can also use nozzles that allow water to be spread evenly. By doing this, brown spots can be avoided and the course will look a lot better. Precipitation nozzles have been said to reduce water wastage by 30%.

Sprinklers come in retrofit conversion units, modular controls and hand held units. Companies today are manufacturing sprinklers keeping customer requirements in mind. All sites are different thus they need sprinklers, which will cater to the irrigation requirements of the site. There are also sprinklers that offer precision coverage for the ground. This is especially beneficial to irrigate tee boxes and other areas that will be difficult to reach. A small-bodied sprinkler is apt for small spaces. With proven toughness and durability sprinklers come with low maintenance requirements.

The central control system is the central processing unit. It is the intelligence behind the irrigation system. You can get graphic based software to make your job easy. This system gives direction to the valves. It tells the valves when to irrigate and when to stop. The sprinkler just directs the flow of water once it receives instruction. A watering station is a set of sprinklers, which is controlled by a single valve. The type of water station depends on the quality of the lawn and the type of plants used. The valves are operated in a certain order and not all at once. Therefore, only when one station has completed work, the next one will start. A watering program controls the watering station.

A watering program is developed to determine the timetable for the watering and how much of water to use. Different plants need different watering timetables. Some plants do not need to be watered every day but some others require daily watering. Thus the system should be pre-programmed to take care of different situations.

Rich Marsiglia
http://www.articlesbase.com/golf-articles/golf-course-irrigation-systems-51589.html

Fen-phen is a combination of two drugs which were used to treat obesity. They are fenfluramine (Pondimin) and phentermine (Fastin). While both drugs were approved by the FDA (Food and Drug Administration), their combined use was not. Nor were they approved for long-term use.

The use of fen-phen has been associated with serious medical complications that include valvular heart disease (damaged heart valves), PPH (Primary Pulmonary Hypertension) and neuropsychological complications.

In some cases, both valvular heart disease and Primary Pulmonary Hypertension can be fatal.

Exposure to fen-phen can cause damage to heart valves, usually to the mitral and aortic valves. This damage impairs the flow of blood through the heart or causes blood to flow back into the chambers of the heart between heartbeats.

This condition may require intensive medical management, or surgery to repair or replace damaged Valves.

Symptoms may include dyspnea (shortness of breath), dizziness, weakness, fatigue, fainting spells and chest pain.

Primary Pulmonary Hypertension (PPH):

Primary Pulmonary Hypertension is distinguished from other forms of Pulmonary Hypertension in that it occurs in the absence of underlying heart or lung disease, or other illnesses. In other words, it is caused by some other factor, such as drug toxicity. This is the case in those individuals who developed this disorder after using fen-phen.

Primary Pulmonary Hypertension results from constriction of capillaries in the lungs and thickening of the walls of those capillaries. Capillaries are the tiniest blood vessels that surround cells and provide nutrients and oxygen.

Primary Pulmonary Hypertension related to the use of fen-phen results in poor oxygenation of the blood and a reduced supply of oxygen to tissues. Sufferers experience shortness of breath. Because blood flow is restricted, the heart must work harder and can become overwhelmed. This leads to heart failure. Fluid backs up in the liver or collects in the abdominal cavity (ascites) or accumulates in the extremities, usually the feet and ankles (edema).

It is diagnosed after an initial assessment of a patient’s symptoms demonstrates abnormalities in a chest x-ray, a CAT scan, pulmonary function tests or an echocardiogram. An angiogram (catheterization and injection of dye into the right side of the heart) confirms the diagnosis.

There is no cure for Primary Pulmonary Hypertension resulting from fen-phen exposure. It generally requires aggressive medication management and sometimes leads to the need for organ transplantation (heart-lung transplants).

The most common symptoms of Primary Pulmonary Hypertension after fen-phen usage are shortness of breath, dizziness and the accumulation of fluid.

The use of fen-phen has also been linked to neuropsychological complications. They may include memory loss, changes in behavior, depression or mood swings, and psychosis.

Necessary treatment may involve psychotherapy, psychotropic medications, or hospitalization.

Nick Johnson
http://www.articlesbase.com/non-fiction-articles/the-dangers-of-fenphen-129922.html

At last you have the car of your dreams and you spent large amounts of both time and money on restoring it and you now want to keep it in the same pristine condition. Unfortunately winter is coming and you do not want to drive it in now the weather is turning bad. So you have decided that you want to put your car into storage for the winter months and as cheaply as possible? Yet you also want to be able to get it back onto the road as soon as the weather is good again and find it in the same condition as
when it went into storage?

Well hopefully the information contained within this article will help you to make an informed decision on the type of car storage you will use.

Indoor Storage
Of course this is the best way for any one to go when looking for storage for their prized car and is the best option especially if you will be away for any extended period of time. But because you don’t have a garage you are now looking for an alternative. Luckily there are many indoor storage facilities around which will gladly rent storage space that is big enough for a vehicle. If you can try and find a facility where they will run the engine on your car for you every month or two. However, you may find that they will charge you extra for this facility, but it will save you money in the long term as the vehicle will be ready for you to drive after a long lay over period.

When preparing your car for storage it is important that it is clean. Wait until you have a warm dry day and then completely wash and wax the car. Also make sure that you clean the underbody and around the wheel areas as well as any dirt left on the car holds moisture and when combined with air will result in result being allowed to grow.

Also thoroughly clean the car inside. Use either a shop/garage vacuum or a household one in order to get into all the nooks and crannies in your car (it is important to get rid of any dirt or crumbs etc., from the car prior to storage). Leaving such items in the car will only make it a place that small creatures (mice, rats) will be drawn to and make their home inside it.

If you can get the carpets thoroughly cleaned and do this before you do any thing else so that it gives them time to dry out before you put the car into storage.

Next take out the spark plugs and put some oil into the cylinders as this will prevent the cylinder walls, pistons and Valves from rusting. You can use regular motor oil but a can of fogging oil from a marine supply store is a good alternative. Now you need to turn the engine by hand half a dozen times to make sure that the oil coats everything. Before you reinstall the spark plugs apply a little anti-seize to them. Also make sure that the petrol (gas) tank is full as this will reduce the risk of how much water is available to be absorbed by the petrol (gas).

Now we come to the electrical system of your car. Remove the battery cables (negative cable first) and then lift out the battery from the engine. Next you need to wipe the batter down with a battery cleaner (this removes any moisture holding dirt or grease from it). Now you place the battery on a clean dry surface. Attach the battery to a trickle charger which will help preserve the battery’s charge. Also inspect the battery for any rust or corrosion.

You will then need to lubricate the hood latches, hinges and door hinges if you are able to check the brake fluid (flush it out and replace if necessary). Now you will need to check the coolant level (make sure there is enough to protect the cooling system from winter temperatures).

If you want to keep rodents and other small animals from chewing the ignition wires and other wiring in your car (place clean rags into the engine air intake, fresh air intake (under the windshield) and the exhaust. A good idea is to get a big box of mothballs and spread them around and under the car (this seems to keep undesirable elements away from the car).

As for the tyres they will after extended periods of time when not moving they will develop flat spots and the best way to prevent this is to put the car up on jacks.

Now remove the wiper blades as this will prevent them from becoming glued to the windshield.

Now you carried out all the necessary things about there is nothing left for you to do but to put it in to storage and lock up knowing you can enjoy it in the future?

Lee Dobbins
http://www.articlesbase.com/automotive-articles/how-to-store-the-car-of-your-dreams-correctly-106603.html

How can such launching speeds are attained with the referenced system. Something along the lines of a steam piston pumped up in pressure until a specially designed part breaks and the aircraft is flung into the air. There are two aspects left out that seem pertinent to me (as both an engineer and retired Navy engineer):

1. the launching valve is a very fast opening-closing valve.

2. Prior to the launching valve, steam is “stored” in a steam accumulator, essentially a large insulated tank.

The combination of the accumulator and launching valve is what delivers a large amount of high temperature and high pressure steam to the pistons in a very short time. There is definitely a quick acting launch valve, length of time the valve is open is calculated based on take off velocity and weight of the aircraft. The “holdback device” is the part that breaks. The aircraft carrier carries a literal truckload of the holdback devices for the duration of the voyage, since it’s a one-time use device.

For ground-based operations, the aircraft can be held against the brakes until the engine is developing full thrust. To do that on a carrier, you’d need to find some way of coordinating brake release with steam valve opening – and it’s probably easier just to have a weak link in the system instead.

I don’t believe water is used as a hydrauli fluid in the arresting gear machinery. It is a Water-Brake, but this is part of the catapult, not the arresting gear. On the catapult, the pistons that are pushed forward by the steam need to decellerate from ~160 mph to zero in a matter of feet. This is accomplished by using a “water brake”, and the water does get very hot, and must be refilled periodically.

Don’t take fresh water too casually. A lot of land based arresting gear is water-filled – I’d be surprised if the shipborne stuff was significantly different. According to the LSO manual, the launching Valves have adjustable orifices control the pressure of the steam into the pistons. The holdback device is also called a tension bar and when that breaks, the built-up steam then expands to push the piston and aircraft forward. Note that the manual discusses the importance of pre-heating the entire assembly to ensure that the steam’s energy is not wasted in heating up mechanical components. The carrier manual NAEC-MISC-06900 is also a good authority, but it only mentions “fluid” in the context of the arresting gear. Ditto the LSO manual; “engine fluid” but never “water.”

Very little of the steam escapes the catapult- the vast majority of it is reclaimed and reheated. It’s far easier to turn 211 degree water into steam than to boil seawater from scratch!

The structure supporting the catapult is incredible, as is the water brake- ships are designed as a giant cantilever beam with most of the displacement in the center, and the bow and stern as cantelievers. And I tell you what- the entire bow of the ship shakes when the catapult slams into the water brake! All that massive steel and it still moves under the stresses, it’s incredible.

Pre-heating has other purposes as well. Like most metallic systems, catapults expand when heated. They will expand significantly (I don’t recall the numbers) from ambient to operating. If one were to try to operate the catapult without the system being heated and expanded, I suspect there will be significant mechanical problems, including even the possibility of the ram hanging up. “Very little steam” escapes, this is relative. I believe as the equivalent of over a hundred gallons of water is lost on each cat shot, assuming steam leaks are minimal.

From my experience, its not just the bow of the ship sthat “shakes” on launch, you can feel it everywhere on the ship! You can’t really feel the bow cats outside of the bow, or the waist cats much outside of the sponson. I mean, there’s a little bit of noise but not really any noticeable vibration and there’s so much noise from elsewhere it’s drowned out. If you’re down 2nd deck and below aft of about frame 100 or so, you’d never even know they were launching or recovering aircraft.

I think they use a lot of steam, but I can guarantee they’re not loosing a hundred gallons of water during launch, there just isn’t that much steam coming through the slit, a couple of gallons, maybe ten gallons at the most. If you were losing that much steam over the length of the catapult, it would lose pressure and stop accelerating towards the end; instead we just see a tiny bit of seepage. Perhaps, it’s a difference in carriers.

Victor Epand
http://www.articlesbase.com/technology-articles/catapult-on-a-navy-aircraft-carrier-96929.html