All About Valves

Archive for September, 2009

The valve is opened (or closed) by sending electricity to a coil, creating a magnetic field that "pulls" the valve open (or closed).

No power to the coil: A spring "pushes" the valve closed (or open).

hey everyone im wonderin where i can locate my idle air control valve on my 96 civic, it idle’s up and down when its warmed up and when im not givin it gas. i heard that was the problem, im tryin to fix ti, can someone tell me where to locate it and how to take it off, thanks

backside of the intake

Are there automatic Valves i mean Water Valves that can be connected to mobile to alert the house owner if there is a leakage in the house or any system of that kind

There simple leak detectors as in the leakfrog that will alert you and some that connect with alarm systems that will send you a text message.There are also valves with sensors that will shut down the water supply.

Several superspeciality hospitals in, India offer comprehensive urological services and are equipped with world class endoscopy instruments and machinery to diagnose and treat stone disease, urological cancer, incontinence (unable to control our bladder & bowels), infertility, impotency and other urinary difficulties.

In India facilities for the treatment of prostrate, bladder cancer, urethral strictures are also available. The urodynamics equipment is also installed in some hospitals in India this equipment diagnose dysfunction of urinary bladder leading to urinary incontinence. In India Kidney and ureteric stones are treated without surgery by lithotripsy method. An advanced machine like the litho star obvert is used for anesthesia in the treatment of kidney and ureteric stones. In India Investigation and treatment facilities for impotence and Male/Female infertility with specialized facilities for pharmacotherapy, cavernosometry and cavernosography is available, in addition to Doppler studies for assessment of blood flow. In India There is special urological disorder clinic for ladies.

Urology Services Available In India:

Pediatric Urology:

»Management of congenial problems like PUJ obstruction, obstructed megaureter and posterior

urethras Valves etc.

»Calculous disease

»Malignancies.

Adult Urology :

»Stone Disease Endoscopically by Uretreroscopy and percutaneous Nephrolithotripsy.

»Urethral Stricture.

»Benign Enlargement of prostate. And TUR prostate,

»Open Urology Procedures

»Stone disease

»Obstruction

»Malignancies of kidney, ureter, bladder & prostate.

»Urethroplasty

»Diagnosis & treatment of erectile dysfunction

»Male infertility

»Renal Transplantation

What is a Kidney Stone?

A kidney stone is a hard mass developed from crystals that separate from the urine and build up on the inner surfaces of the kidney. Normally, urine contains chemicals that prevent or inhibit the crystals from forming. These inhibitors do not seem to work for everyone, however, so some people form stones. If the crystals remain tiny enough, they will travel through the urinary tract and pass out of the body in the urine without being noticed. Kidney stones may contain various combinations of chemicals. The most common type of stone contains calcium in combination with either oxalate or phosphate. These chemicals are part of a person’s normal diet and make up important parts of the body, such as bones and muscles.

A less common type of stone is caused by infection in the urinary tract. This type of stone is called a struvite or infection stone. A bit less common is the uric acid stone. Cystine stones are rare.Urolithiasis is the medical term used to describe stones occurring in the urinary tract. Other frequently used terms are urinary tract stone disease and nephrolithiasis. Doctors also use terms that describe the location of the stone in the urinary tract. For example, a ureteral stone (or ureterolithiasis) is a kidney stone found in the ureter. To keep things simple, however, the term “kidney stones” is used throughout this fact sheet.Gallstones and kidney stones are not related. They form in different areas of the body. If you have a gallstone, you are not necessarily more likely to develop kidney stones.

What causes kidney stones?

Kidney stones form when there is a decrease in urine volume or an excess of stone-forming substances in the urine. The most common type of kidney stone contains calcium in combination with either oxalate or phosphate. Other chemical compounds that can form stones in the urinary tract include uric acid and the amino acid cystine.

Dehydration through reduced fluid intake or strenuous exercise without adequate fluid replacement increases the risk of kidney stones. Obstruction to the flow of urine can also lead to stone formation. Kidney stones associated with infection in the urinary tract are known as struvite or infection stones. Men are especially likely to develop kidney stones, and whites get them more often than African American. The prevalence of kidney stones begins to rise when men reach their 40s and continues to climb into their 70s. People who have already had more than one kidney stone are prone to develop more stones.

What are the Symptoms of Kidney Stone?

First we must define a urinary kidney stone as a cluster of crystals which have formed in the urinary tract. Urinary stones can be described by their location as kidney stones, ureteral stones or bladder stones. The location of the stone in the urinary tract may often be determined by the location of the symptoms they are causing. In most cases stones are initially formed in the kidney where they generally don’t cause symptoms. They may be dissolved by the presence of blood or infection in the urine on route to examination. Sometimes they can grow large enough to damage the kidney, which may cause discomfort in the back or flank area. Generally it is not until a kidney stone begins to pass out of the kidney and move down the ureter that we become aware of its presence.

Pain Distribution

The first symptom of a kidney stone is usually onset of severe, excruciating pain in the flank or mid back area. This pain is often the result of a stone moving in the urinary tract, causing irritation and blockage of urine flow. Nausea and vomiting can accompany this pain, and the pain may spread to the pelvis, groin, and genitals. The passage of large stones can be complicated when trying to squeeze through the narrow ureter. This may result in hematuria, a condition where blood is found in the urine. As the stone passes down the ureter toward the bladder, it can cause an increased urge to urinate, painful or burning urination, excessive urination at night, and urinary hesitancy. Other symptoms may include abnormal urine color or appearance, tenderness in abdomen or back when touched, and loss of appetite. If fever or chills are present with any of these symptoms, an infection may be present, in which cases one should see a doctor immediately

How are Kidney Stones treated?

Fortunately, surgery is not usually necessary. Most kidney stones can pass through the urinary system with plenty of water (2 to 3 quarts a day) to help move the stone along. Often, you can stay home during this process, drinking fluids and taking pain medication as needed. The doctor usually asks you to save the passed stone(s) for testing.

The First Step: Prevention

If you’ve had more than one kidney stone, you are likely to form another; so prevention is very important. To prevent stones from forming, your doctor must determine their cause. He or she will order laboratory tests, including urine and blood tests. Your doctor will also ask about your medical history, occupation, and eating habits. If a stone has been removed, or if you’ve passed a stone and saved it, the laboratory should analyze it because its composition helps in planning treatment.

You may be asked to collect your urine for 24 hours after a stone has passed or been removed. The sample is used to measure urine volume and levels of acidity, calcium, sodium, uric acid, oxalate, citrate, and creatinine (a product of muscle metabolism). Your doctor will use this information to determine the cause of the stone. A second 24-hour urine collection may be needed to determine whether the prescribed treatment is working.

Lifestyle Changes

A simple and most important lifestyle change to prevent stones is to drink more liquids—water is best. If you tend to form stones, you should try to drink enough liquids throughout the day to produce at least 2 quarts of urine in every 24-hour period.

People who form calcium stones used to be told to avoid dairy products and other foods with high calcium content. But recent studies have shown that foods high in calcium, including dairy products, may help prevent calcium stones. Taking calcium in pill form, however, may increase the risk of developing stones.

You may be told to avoid food with added vitamin D and certain types of antacids that have a calcium base. If you have very acidic urine, you may need to eat less meat, fish, and poultry. These foods increase the amount of acid in the urine.

To prevent cystine stones, you should drink enough water each day to dilute the concentration of cystine that escapes into the urine, which may be difficult. More than a gallon of water may be needed every 24 hours, and a third of that must be drunk during the night.

For affordable and low cost Kidney Stone Treatment in India, contact- Dheeraj Bojwani-MD

Important Details:

To know more about Hospitals in India and the surgery packages available in Hospitals,

Please visit- http://www.dheerajbojwani.com

Email- contact@dheerajbojwani.com

Contact Number- 0091-93711-36499

Dheeraj.Bojwani
http://www.articlesbase.com/health-articles/kidney-stone-treatment-destination-india-87222.html

By the end of last month, Bugatti Automobiles S.A.S, a Volkswagen AG subsidiary, has delivered 60 Bugatti Veyron 16.4s. The deliveries are deemed in excess of the intended production volume of the company.

In December 2003, the burden of managing Bugatti Automobiles S.A.S. went to Dr. Thomas Bscher, the new president of the company. Additionally, Dr. Wolfgang Schreiber was appointed as the technical director and manager of the Bugatti Engineering department. With such changes, the entire Bugatti project was then totally reassessed and a new schedule for the completion date of the Veyron was fixed. The objectives established have all been achieved since then.

The delivery of the Bugatti Veyron 16.4 started in March last year after its production in Alsatian Molsheim at the end of 2005. For the first production year, Bugatti Automobiles S.A.S. has reached the planned 50 units.

Production of the super sports car has been limited to a maximum of 300 units. The number of Veyron units for the first production year has amounted to 50 vehicles, as previously set. At present, the automaker is already able to increase the annual production volume and thus is able to lessen the waiting time for customers.

“In 2007 we are planning to increase the production of the Bugatti Veyron,” said Bscher at the International Geneva Motor Show, “because the order entry for the Veyron is getting close to a 140 and we wouldn’t want our customers to have to wait longer for their Bugatti.”

Bscher continued, “It is not unexpected that most of the orders come from the US; traditionally the most important market for luxury vehicles. Thirty percent of the 140 contracts received up to now with a down payment of EUR 300,000, which is the condition for the production of the vehicle to start, come from the United States. This means that that is where – on a country basis – up to now most of the Bugatti Veyron have been delivered.”

In Europe, majority of the demand for the super sports car come from Germany and England and these countries are two of the most important markets for luxury cars outside the United States. Other European countries that showed interest in purchasing the Veyron include France, Monaco, Benelux, Austria, Italy, Spain and Switzerland. The Bugatti Veyron has also wowed the Middle East countries. Deliveries have also been made to the Arab countries.

Within a year, a network of Bugatti sales and service partners has been developed. So far, the network covers 26 locations. Consistent with the sales figures, the United States is also top in this area with nine contact points. Other points include five on the west coast, one in Florida and the traditional areas in the east with three partners sharing the responsibility.

The Bugatti Veyron 16.4 is currently the fastest car in the world with a top speed of over 400 km/h. The Veyron is also the most powerful and expensive street-legal production car. The Veyron is equipped with a W16 engine, which is composed of 16 cylinders in four banks of four cylinders. It is the equivalent of two narrow-angle V8 engines mated in a “W” configuration. Each cylinder has four Valves, for a total of 64. However, the narrow V8 configuration allows two camshafts to drive two banks of cylinders so only four camshafts are required. The engine of the Veyron is supported by four turbochargers.

How much does a Veyron cost? The base price of the car is a €1,127,210 that when converted equals £757,359 or $1,440,800! The price could drill a hole in the pocket even to some well-offs.

The Bugatti Veyron comes with a fabulous appeal, a distinctive bumper, an ulta-powerful engine, and other remarkable auto parts accessories. The Veyron is made an international car to let other aficionados savor its impressive performance, sophisticated parts and extraordinary drive feel. It imbibes Bugatti’s philosophy - nothing is too expensive, nothing is too beautiful.

KatieJones
http://www.articlesbase.com/automotive-articles/bugatti-veyron-the-fastest-car-on-course-115931.html

Suspension Set-up: The basics

Whether you are a road rider or a racer correct suspension setup
is the key to fast smooth riding and consistent lap times. To
get the best out of your bike it needs to be set up for the
conditions in which you will be riding. It is considerably
easier to set the bike up for the Track as you know what
conditions will be like for the next hour or so and thus you can
dial in the optimum settings for the that particular situation.
To what extent you change your suspension settings will depend
on whether your bike will also have to cope with riding on the
road. Unlike Roads Tracks are generally smooth and grippy. So if
you are only going to use the bike on the track you have the
luxury of fitting harder springs and modifying the fork and
shock internals. If you ride on the road as well as the track
you will probably want to keep a certain comfort level and
concentrate on just optimizing the current equipment With
incorrect suspension setup, tire wear is increased and handling
suffers, which in turn can result in rider fatigue. Lap times
can be dramatically slower and in extreme cases safety can be
compromised. Hopefully the following guide will help you dial in
your suspension for faster and safer riding both on and off the
track. Firstly you will need to check the Fork and Shock sag:
this is the amount the forks and rear shock settle under load.
To measure it do the following: push down on the forks a number
of times to settle them, then mark the stanchion with a felt pen
or put a cable tie where the dust seal is sitting. Next ask some
for help to lift on the bars so the front wheel is just off the
ground and measure the amount the forks have traveled down. This
is the static sag (or unladen sag), This can be changed by
adjusting the spring preload (more preload = less sag). Repeat
the same process for the rear, this time measuring the distance
from the wheel spindle to a fixed point on the tail. Now you are
ready to begin setting up your suspension. The key is to do it a
little at a time and make notes as you go. For road riding start
with the wet track settings and work from there. Basic Setup:
Check the following Forks sag 18-22 mm for dry track, 23-27mm
for rain. Shock sag 8-10mm for dry track, 10-14mm for rain.
Check chain alignment. If not correct, bike will crab walk and
sprocket wear will be increased. Proper tire balance and
pressure, starting with 30psi front and 32psi rear (both dry and
wet). Steering head bearings and torque specifications - if too
loose, there will be head shake at high speeds. Front-end
alignment. Check wheel alignment with triple clamps. If out of
alignment, fork geometry will be incorrect and steering will
suffer. Crash damage, check for proper frame geometry. Stock
Suspension Tuning Limitations Manufacturers plan on designing a
bike that works moderately well for a large section of riders
and usages. To accomplish this as economically as possible, they
use valving with very small venturis. These are then matched to
a very basic shim stack which creates a damping curve for the
given suspension component. At slower speeds this design can
work moderately well, but at higher speeds, when the suspension
must react more quickly, the suspension will not flow enough
oil, and will experience hydraulic lock. With hydraulic lock,
the fork and/or shock cannot dampen correctly and handling
suffers. The solution is to re-valve the active components to
gain a proper damping curve. It does not matter what components
you have, (Ohlins, Fox, Kayaba, Showa) matching them to your
intended use and weight will vastly improve their action.
Furthermore, if you can achieve the damping curve that is
needed, it does not matter what brand name is on the component.
Often with stock components, when you turn the adjusters full in
or out, you do not notice a difference. In part, this is due to
the fact that the manufacturer has put the damping curve in an
area outside of your ideal range. Also, because the Valves have
such small venturis, the adjuster change makes very little
difference. After re-valving, the adjusters will be brought into
play, and when you make an adjustment, you will be able to
notice that it affects the way the way the fork or shock
performs. Another problem with stock suspension is the springs
that are used. Often they are progressive, increasing the spring
rate with increased compression distance. This means that the
valving is correct for only one part of the spring’s travel, all
other is compromise. If the factory does install a straight-rate
spring, it is rarely the correct rate for the weight of the
rider with gear. The solution is to install a straight-rate
spring that matches the valving for the combined weight of the
bike, rider and gear to the type of riding intended. Remember! •
Always make small adjustments, more is not always better. •
Always keep notes of what you have done. • Suspension tuning is
an art - be patient

Mark Thompson
http://www.articlesbase.com/automotive-articles/motorcycle-suspensionmastering-a-black-art-429.html

Maintenance Tip #1 Preparing the water heater

Turn off the power if its an electric water heater.

Turn off the water to the water heater by closing the valve on the cold water line. Its located on top of the water heater. The cold line is always to the right.

Open a hot water tap inside the house. Air pressure will come out of the tap.

Open the drain valve located at the bottom of the water heater. It looks like a hose bibb. Let a gallon or more out of the water heater.

Do not allow anyone to use hot water for the time you are working on the water heater.

Maintenance Tip # 2 Removing sediment by dissolving it

You can dissolve sediment by using a descaler called Mag-Erad. It’s made by A.O. Smith who also builds water heaters. Use the instructions that come with this descaler, but ignore the part about leaving the gas water heater on. Turn the flame off by setting it to PILOT. The heat without water in the water heater can cause damage to the gas systems.

You can also use lye to dissolve sediment. Its very flammable and volatile. A plumber should use this chemical only.

Maintenance Tip #3 Controlling sediment

Sediment can be kept under control if you use softened water. Salt softened water only reduces sediment; it doesn’t get rid of the problem and also causes another problem. Anode rods’ life expectancy is reduced 50% to 65%.

Sediment grows rapidly at 140 degrees. Legionnaires’ Disease can grow at temperatures of 115 degrees or less. To keep both of these problems at bay, its best to set your water heater at 130 degrees. Legionnaires’ Disease is actually caused by inhaling water vapor rather than drinking infected water. Still, in hospitals the plumbing should be regularly filled with 170 degree water to kill all remaining bacteria.

The only way to check what temperature the water actually is, is to fill a cup of hot water and put a meat thermometer in the cup. If you have a gas water heater, the dial on it can be adjusted until hot water that is 130 degrees is coming out of the tap. Be sure to give the water heater a chance to recover between adjustments on the dial. An hour should do.

Some gas water heaters can adjust the size of the flame produced. Look at the center of the control knob and see if a small screw-like button is there. If so, this button can be used to adjust the flame size. If your having trouble getting enough hot water as it is, then leave this alone though.

If you have a sediment problem in an electric water heater, have a low-watt density element installed. Don’t be fooled by its name. It’s not as hot as a high-watt density element, however the surface area of the low-watt is double and heats just as well. The reduced heat slows the production of sediment.

If you have high water pressure over 50 psi, then have a plumber install a pressure reduced for your water heater. High pressure causes more sediment build-up

Maintenance Tip #4 Check water heater plumbing fittings

Check any threaded connections on your water heater for possible leaks. Threaded connections are located on the top of the water heater for both the hot and cold lines running to and from the water heater. The T&P valve which is on to one side of the water heater, may become leaky. It has a plastic pipe connecting it and has a loose metal switch which can be lifted to stand on end. The drain valve can leak. It is at the bottom of the water heater and often looks like a hose bib. The thermostat controls for both gas water heaters and electric water heaters can leak. The gas control has the words ON/OFF/PILOT written on it. The electric control is behind one but usually two metal compartments on the front of the water heater.

Maintenance Tip #5 Steel connections

Rust can occur if steel touches copper or brass. The rust occurs on the steel only on not on the copper or brass. Copper and brass are noble to steel on the Periodic Table. To control this problem on a water heater use a steel nipple with a plastic lining. This allows the water heater, which is steel to touch the steel nipple with no problem.

The steel nipple with plastic lining can also touch any copper plumbing because the plastic prevents them from touching. Dielectric unions can also touch steel nipples since their function is to prevent rusting or corrosion.

Maintenance Tip #6 Broken nipples

If the nipple breaks when you remove it with a pipe wrench, grab a flat-end screwdriver and a hammer. Hit the circle opening with the screwdriver and hammer and bend in the ring. Now use the screw driver to pry up the broken nipple. Use a hacksaw blade only to cut the opening slot to the threads if the screwdriver doesn’t do the trick. Clean the threads with a pipe tap. Now wrap the new nipple with teflon tap on the threads and install it.

Maintenance Tip #7 Electric heating elements

To check the electric heating elements on an electric water heater, locate the two ports in the front of the water heater. Sometimes there’s only one port, but nonetheless, you need to remove them. Here you can see the heating elements are screwed or bolted into the water heater and kept water-tight by a rubber gasket. Remove the element, but only if you’ve drained the water heater and turned the power off first. Replace the gasket if the rubber has turned hard. Wrap the element with teflon tape if it has threads. Put the tape on the threads and wrap it a couple of times.

Hard scale can build-up directly on an electric element. This is rare but it can happen. Scale usually just sloughs off elements and falls to the bottom of the water heater. If enough scale (also known as sediment) falls to the bottom of the water heater, it could bury the lower element.

There are two types of heating elements, the high-watt density element and the low-watt density element. The high-watt sloughs sediment off more easily but the total amount of sediment is greater due to the higher temperatures. A low-watt creates lower overall sediment because it is not as hot, but it still heats up the water just as well because it has double the surface area. It tends to get flakes of scale directly on itself more easily though. In most instances, the low-watt density element will cause fewer problems.

Elements may be cleaned. Use a toothbrush and vinegar to gently clean the sediment off of them.

If your anode rods have become heavily deteriorated, then this can affect your elements. Corrosive actions between the copper on the sheath of the element and the steel of the water heater’s tank can sprout slow leaks and destroy the elements. If your elements are burning out frequently after replacement, the anode could be to blame.

John Haynes
http://www.articlesbase.com/home-and-family-articles/another-7-maintenance-tips-for-water-heaters-94888.html

The model of the ingersollrand rotary single stage air compressor is 9/235HA IR.My doubt is that what is the function of start/run pneumatic Solenoid Valve in this compressor and also I have the doubt that , this stsrt/run solenoid valve is N/C OR N/O

The purpose of the device may be to allow the driver ( engine or electric motor) to start-up in an unloaded condition. This will reduce the amount of heat in electric motor windings at starting and extend the service life.
I do not know how the Sn valve is employed, but there can be some confusion about what NO and OC means. One convention is that a valve is NO if it open when you have it in your hand, not what its "normal" position is during operation.

I have a 1994 Ford F150 pickup regualr cab 2WD. I need to know where the oil pressure relief valve is on the straight six.

should be in the base where the filter screws on to the engine.

It runs fine till the engine is warm then runs "ruff"then dies and wont start untill it cools some. Oil is full.
So tonight I removed it and replaced it with a simple screw and nut where it was on the carb bowl and it runs great.
Any thoughts would be helpfull

The symptoms don’t really match the fix. The solenoid shuts off the fuel so if it were malfunctioning you would run out of fuel. When it dies and won’t start have you ever checked the spark? It sounds more like a bad coil.