All About Valves

Archive for the ‘Ball Valves’ Category

hello!
I’m designing a floor cleaner and for a water release system i was thinking of using a ball valve, connected to an actuator,however i’m not fully sure what to look for, and although I can buy the actuator and ball valve together, I’m not sure how to connect it to a motor and battery?
If anyone can help my with this I’d really appreciate it!!
Thank You!!

An actuator for a ball valve can use either compressed air or an eectric power source to drive a motor. Air actuated Valves can operate very quickly and are a little cheaper but they require a compressed air source and pneumatic controls to operate. An electric operator uses a geared motor to operate the valve and are slower. Electric operators are more expensive but only require power and some switches to operate. See link for hook up details….

The motor is built into the actuator so its just a matter of mating the actuator up with the valve.
It would be best to buy a complete unit with the actuator and valve already attached. These will cost at a minimum several hundred dollars.

Using a ball valve may not operate fast enough nor give you fine control if your considering using it to control the cleaning fluid applied to the floor. Instead consider using a Solenoid Valve instead. These are smaller valves and operate very quickly by just adding or removing power. Not to mention these are much cheaper $25 to $100 on average.

For gas lines
ASME codes for Valves

That is going to depend on the pressure rating of the valve. Most cast iron valves have ratings to match one of the cast iron flange ratings even if they are not flanged. The primary ratings are ANSI B16.1

The actual ratings can be obtained from most valve catalogs, valve manufacturers or the ANSI or ASME websites.

You can get Ball ValvValves in just about all standard flange configurations from ANSI 150 to 2500. They can also be had in raised face as well as ring joint versions. Below is the Crane version.

How does it relate to particle of matter & what is its property; viscosity, density, buoyancy, pressure. (explain it please?) thank you.

Some valves are better than others at controlling certain types of products like gases or fluids. It depends on the application, type of product, pressure through the pipe, diameter of pipe, etc.

There a different types of valves besides a ball valve, like globe Valves, gate valves, needle valves, butterfly valves, etc. They can be manually, hydraulically or pneumatically operated.

The PTFE stands for PolyTetraFluoroEthylene (a plastic)
The prefix R stands for Reinforced PTFE
The prefix M stands for Modified PTFE

I installed a ball valve a couple weeks ago to work as an iodine fillup on a dairy farm. It took me a long time to get the connections tight enough so it would not leak. Yesterday, however, it was leaking so much that I had to take it down. There was no possible way for me to tighten it any more. I was wondering if I tightened it to much or if they are any simple solutions to this problem.

Did you use thread sealant when installing the valve? Threads will not seal without it and will leak no matter how tight. Is the valve material compatible with iodine?

I’m remodeling my bath, the Copper Pipe comes directly from the floor into a gate valve then into a pressure fitting and finally flex tubing. The vanity I’m installing has a raised base that is higher than the current assemble. What I would like to do is cut the gate valve off, replace it with longer stem than a threaded gate valve. How do I do it? I’m thinking a Slip fitting/ pipe /Male fitting/ ball valve.

if you have copper, you need to extend the risers, set the vanity, and then escutcheons and new straight stops. You can get them compression on both sides for copper and 3/8 supplies.

Home Biodiesel processors are very easy to assemble.  Biodiesel processors can come from some materials which you can recycle from home or from some stuff from the junk yard:

Assembling the drum

1. Cut half of the top of the steel drum. Better if you can find a drum which doesn’t have the top anymore.

2. Prepare a hole for pipe attachment at the bottom of the drum. Do this by drilling a one and a half inch hole

3. Weld the pipe into the hole that you just drilled

4. Attach a brass ball valve which will serve as the drain control. Brass Ball ValvValves are more durable and are recommended for home made biodiesel processors.

5. Fit the heater element onto a hole that you will drill on the side of the drum. Heater elements can be purchased from your local hardware or be recycled from your old water heater

6. Wire the heater element properly

Chemical Mixer

1. Fasten one pulley to the mixer

2. Assemble the other pulley to the spindle of the motor

3. Weld the propellers to the end of the steel rod

4. Attach the mixer to the hinge so you can move it whenever needed

5. Weld the mixer assembly on the top of the drum using angled iron as support

6. Attach one side of the hinge to the angle iron to set the mixer in the middle of the drum

7. Tightly fit the belt to the pulleys by placing a block of wood into the hinge. The mixing capability is essential to Biodiesel processor to obtain good quality fuel.

8. Attach a measuring stick made of wood to know the quantity of the Biodiesel being produced

Here are some more pointers:

Biodiesel processors are just like big blenders. The rotors will mix the raw Biodiesel.

Biodiesel containers must be leak free.  Instead of welding, industrial adhesives can be used to assemble Biodiesel processors. For portability, you can attach industrial wheels so you can move it from one place to another.

Remember the precautions to be observed during the production of Biodiesel. The process involves handling of hazardous chemicals before you can yield usable Biodiesel fuel.

Joseph Long
http://www.articlesbase.com/automotive-articles/how-to-make-biodiesel-734608.html

I have a 1/2 inch copper sweat ball valve, that reads for LP Gas.I thought you couldnt use sweat Valves on gas lines.

my answer is try to check it out first on auto repair shop..

I’ve reverted temporarily to my old ways and built a ball valve airgun. I still need to put sights on it and plan to change it over to a .40 caliber barrel so I can use 3/8″ steel or lead ammo. Hope you like it!

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